On a random visit to Maurya Lok Complex on Dak Bungalow Road, Patna, I noticed something very common with all litti chokha vendors --- Aamir Khan devouring on litti chokha with bare hands. Yes, with bare hands. You can't conquer the kingdom of gourmets with fork and spoon, you have to get your hands dirty.
Out of curiosity, I went to "Bihar kay famous, R.K. Litti Chokha":
"Ei sab Aamir Khan ka photo kaahe laga rakha h ho?"
"Aray Bhaiyya Aamir Khan litti khaya tha ne chidyaghar pe, sablog net se download kar k laga diye hain".
Before I could ask more, Litti dipped in pure ghee caught my eyes. Unable to control my urge, I ordered a plate.
Famous for its rustic flavour and taste, a plate worth Rs. 20 consists of two wheat-flour-made, sattu-filled Littis dipped in pure ghee, served with chokha (made of boiled potatoes and brinjals) and salad. Unlike restaurants here you can ask for chokha and salad till you want no more.
At Hariniwas complex story is different. Here one can conclude "What Vada pav is for Mumbai, Litti Chokha is for Patna". "Chhapra waale Manoj Litti Bhandaar" don't need an Aamir Khan to catch one’s eye. A crowd often surrounds the vendor waiting eagerly for their turn. Most of them don't stop at a plate, they ask for more littis, more chokha and more salad. "Bihar ka guarav D.K Litti Corner" have many branches spread all over Patna city and calls Bhojpuri actor Ravi Kisan their ambassador.
My next stop was Sanjay Gandhi Biological Park, "the chidyaghar" at Bailey Road to taste Bihari Rai's Litti Chokha. Rai's Raj Sweets at gate no. 1 of the Zoo is famous for Aamir Khan's visits. In a bid to attract more people, Rai has put up framed newspaper cutting and big banners with photographs of Aamir's visit to his shop and eating litti chokha. A billboard quotes Aamir as saying "Bihari litti ka jawab nahin". Binod has taken over the job of baking litti here from his bedridden father Kapil Dev Thakur who baked litti to Khan.
Last year's Street Food Festival at Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium, Delhi saw Litti-Mutton, Litti-Chicken and Litti-Fish. Till now, I couldn't find non-veg Litti in Patna. My search ended at Boring Road Chuaraha. Here, D.K and others serve Litti-Chicken, but are not satisfied with business.
Bottomline: If you are in Patna and want to taste best Litti Chokha, go to Dak Bungalow Road. Aamir Khan hasn’t tasted the best but you can. And don’t fall for Litti-Chicken and all. I mean, how can anyone think of Litti without Chokha, how?
(An Engineering graduate from Jamia Millia Islamia, New Delhi.
Hometown: Kishanganj, Bihar)
